Thursday, June 04, 2015

The frogs feed arrow | Pet care.

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The poisonous frogss need large amounts of food. Remember that they are relatively active predators that live in a constantly warm climate and whose metabolism is very high (for a frog, clear). The majority of caregivers feed their frogs every two or three days and let them eat as much as they want. I have seen cases of frogs with obesity, so it is possible that these reach overfeeding is. It is convenient to observe them when they eat and slightly reduce the rations if we see which tend to inflate after lunch. Be careful not to confuse with the State of pregnancy obesity; pregnant females should never be undernourished. Learn to observe the behavior of their frogs and take notes to find out when a female can start to have eggs.
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Unfortunately, the most advisable food of all is the one that is used less frequently. I am referring to the diversity of insects (flies, beetles, aphids, small grasshoppers, etc.) which can be tracing the vegetation with a very fine mesh salabre (can be achieved in any company supplies for biologists, or easily build with average home). In the northern hemisphere, if the shrubs and herbs are crawled - away from the roads and gardens to avoid the pollution caused by cars and insecticides - between April and October can be hundreds of small insects, as well as some aggressive species and larger size that must be discarded. Avoid the ants and insects too hard; While in the wild ants are an important part of the diet of poisonous frogs, they rarely eat them in the terrarium. What if we can give them are small spiders and harvestmen that could fall on our network. Do not push one time too many insects in the terrarium as they may prove to be a hindrance. The frogs love flies and aphids.
Many fans believe that they do not have time to go out and capture insects, and spend many hours caring for their own breeding of insects. The fact of having to raise drosophilids and dwarf crickets, continuously launch new crops, and separate them by size, is probably one of the factors for which many fans are not capable of looking after poisonous frogs for a long time. It is easy to get to a point in which one spends more time taking care of flies and crickets to the frogs. In addition, always usually spend disasters that end up with live food crops and force us to quickly search for a substitute at the worst time.

Drosophilids

If you have ever attended a course in genetics, surely that it will have had to raise drosophilids. There are a few flies small (somewhat less than 5 mm, depending on the species), smooth and soft which are grown on a medium with an abundance of yeast. The classical formula consists of crushing very ripe bananas, mix with oatmeal or any product that gives the dough texture right, place mixture in a small bottle that you can cover with a cotton, and cook in a pressure cooker to eliminate all bacteria and fungi that could contain. When the dough cools, add live yeast and a couple of days after a couple dozen of Drosophila are placed. These deposited eggs that will leave a tiny white larvae with appearance of worms that pierce the culture medium and then become pupae fixing to vertical strips of paper. Depending on the temperature (higher, over the cycle, accelerates but with certain limits), the new generation of drosophilids takes about two weeks to make their appearance. It is now possible to purchase commercially prepared Drosophila medium to simplify the process. They can also be apterous drosophilids or with vestigial wings, which are greatly facilitates feeding the frogs, especially those that live in soil.
The wild drosophilids are everywhere, and to check it is enough to leave the waste bin a banana skin or the heart of a block for a few days. This simple system can be used in cases of emergency, or when crops start to fail (tend to be attacked by fungi and other parasites) and have to wait weeks to get a new strain of Drosophila. Some fans have managed to get lucky with a system that may seem promising in certain conditions: simply place a piece of fruit in the terrarium and release some adult Drosophila so they begin to reproduce. However, given the high humidity that exist in the terrarium for frogs poisonous, I don't know how can be achieved to prevent the emergence of all kinds of fungi. Better not try it.
Poison Dart Frog Sitting on a Leaf
It is advisable to start crops of Drosophila each week because they tend to last for a month before starting to run out, and we need many drosophilids. These flies can be found at some pet shops, but it is often be necessary to entrust them or that you must resort to a supplier of material for biology laboratories. They are cheap, but they give a lot of work.

Crickets

Cricket is often marketed is the Acheta domesticus, which is a European species that many years ago that it breeds as bait for fishing. Adult crickets can be purchased at most pet shops, but can still be cheaper if you buy in large quantities directly from the hatchery. However, an adult cricket has a size similar to that of the majority of poisonous frogs and can advantageously fight against them, so only the most young and small crickets should be used. While some stores tend to sell newborn crickets, these are expensive and delicate; In addition, we will need large quantities. Raising crickets at home is not exactly an exciting activity, but many fans consider that there is not obliged to do so.
Start by preparing at least two containers (can be aquariums) of about 40 liters, putting a layer of about 5 cm of wet sand inside and covering them with a cover of plastic or glass that fit correctly. Each installation will be placed a plate flat with food for dogs or cats with high protein content or, better still, a special for crickets food containing calcium and vitamins. You can also add a couple of lettuce leaves. Some pieces of rolled corrugated carton (carton in which generally packing the eggs can also be used) will be very useful to provide refuge for crickets and reduce their mortality. Place a few hundred adult crickets (with fully developed wings) at each facility and keep them at a temperature that does not drop below 25 ° C.
Females (recognizable by the long and thin tube ovopositor have on your back) begin to spawn in the wet sand at the end of two or three days. If we have 50 to 75 females really get thousands of eggs. The majority of adult crickets will die after a couple of weeks (for his age), so when as they take five or six days in the Kennel you can take out them and use them to feed other reptiles and amphibians in house - a pity is wasted adults leaving old will die after the sunsets.
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At normal room temperature, the eggs will take 25 to 35 days to hatch, and then you will see how your installation is invaded by tiny Brown crickets. Before they are born it is necessary to remove all traces of food that could be on the installation and renew cartons by placing pieces of appropriate size. You must also place a full plate of food for crickets (containing a supplement of vitamins and calcium), as well as a couple of lettuce leaves. Newborn crickets often hide under pieces of cardboard, and if it catches them is carefully, it is possible out of the kennel, place them in a wide-mouth jar, and make that crickets shed a few Pat. These crickets must be offered to the frogs as soon as possible and while still containing food.
When the crickets reached the age of 15 days already are usually too big for most poisonous frogs, so it can be used to feed other animals, and will have to start new crops. Be sure to clean thoroughly breeders any remaining food or crickets before another crop. Ideally, extend the Sun and outdoor arena, and thus leave for one month before using it again. This method gives a lot of work and requires considerable space as well as an environmental elevated temperature (unless you've selected a heating mat is used), but it works. If you start new crops every two or three weeks will not never be without newborn crickets, but it is very likely that you have to buy new adult given that the frogs be eaten virtually all of its production.

Other foods

The poisonous frogs can eat many other foods, but none of them is easy to breed or acquire, and all can cause us serious problems. Honey moths are almost impossible to breed with domestic media, have a very tough skin, and are too fat. The mealworms are too harsh for the poisonous frogs, even the smallest. The caterpillars can be dangerous, his skin is very tough and they are too fat. To my knowledge, there is no one who is engaged in rearing small spiders to feed the poisonous frogs, but might be interesting to try it (while many spiders have very short life cycles). And ants, as we have mentioned before, is better to forget them. If you are limited to the Drosophila and the crickets, and complements them with "plankton's field" that can capture, you will have a good and varied diet throughout the year.

Add-ins

Remember to always sprinkle all foods with calcium and a special reptile vitamin complex. The poisonous frogs are constantly producing eggs and sperm, so they need abundant supplements in your diet. The poor diet of adults usually result in sterility of eggs or deficiencies in the tadpoles, although adults seem to be healthy. The simplest method is to "batter" flies and crickets to base of placing them in a plastic bag containing vitamins and calcium powder and shake carefully. Also they can feed crickets with vitamins and calcium supplements at least two days before using them.
Don't forget to make this so simple.

Food for tadpoles

The most poisonous frogs tadpoles are omnivorous, i.e., they eat both animal matter as a vegetable. The majority of the tadpole of Epipedobates and Phyllobates feed mainly on algae and detritus, so it can be fed perfectly finely crushed Flake fish food, especially if it contains vegetable matter. Also accept liquid foods in emulsion (preferably with vegetable-based) which are used to feed tropical fish fry. The yeast can be used as emergency food, but it breaks down very quickly in the hot water of the tadpoles. Some breeders have had success with the use of diatomaceous (green water), but it is hard to regularly get a good amount and, in addition, the tadpoles grow quickly and soon need somewhat higher food. Nor are those who employ basically spinach boiled and mashed.
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Most tadpoles, and especially the Dendrobates, also eat worms. They seem to like it especially "red larvae" (Yes, they are not worms but larvae of chironomids, but our pets gives them equal), and can give them live, frozen or freeze-dried, provided to crush them so they release their internal fluids and the tadpoles can transfer their chitinous coverage. In nature, many tadpoles seems that they feed on tiny mosquito larvae that swim freely in the water, so they would also be a good alternative for the hottest months. In addition, many species of adult frogs are also insatiable eaters of mosquitoes, as these abound near the water and his body is soft and appealing. Anyway, and given that mosquitoes develop very quickly in hot water (such as the of the tadpoles) should take precautions to avoid a domestic invasion.
Some tadpoles also accept tubifex worms, but these often come from places of dubious hygiene (sewer of big cities with hot climate) and can become more dangerous than useful. Sometimes also accept earthworms crushed (the more finely, better), but you should never use them as a staple food.
If you can assemble a good crop of Collembola (if it picks up a handful of leaves from the garden and keeps them warm and moist will quickly get thousands of these nearly invisible insects), you can use them to feed both the tadpoles and young froglets. If we introduce some leaves with these insects in a jar with water, the springtails (if it picks up a handful of leaves from the garden and keeps them warm and moist will quickly get thousands of these nearly invisible insects), you can use them to feed both the tadpoles and young froglets. If we introduce some leaves with these insects in a jar with water, the springtails will remain on the surface and we can pick them with a cardboard to carry them to the tadpole aquarium or terrarium of froglets (not drown). Naturally, we can also introduce springtails leaves directly in the terrarium of froglets and leave that they reproduce freely at your own pace.
As we have seen, there are many foods suitable for the poisonous frogs and all we need is to have time to raise them or capture them.
Published for educational purposes
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